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Build your own in-ear monitoring!

as 2, 3 or 4-way-system.
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We will show you step by step how it works and
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Tools:

soldering iron
solder
cutting knife
side cutter
secondary glue

Building earmolds

The negative form
Material list:
Paraffin dipping wax
Cuff form
Doublier mass





Shell construction
Material list
Light-curing acrylic

Fill the negative mold with light-curing acrylic.
Place the cover of the cuff form turned around over the filling side, no UV light may penetrate
Put the negative form under UV light and turn it
A wall thickness of approx. 1.5 mm should be achieved
Excess material should be poured out and irradiated again with UV light
The material can be reused
Clean surfaces with alcohol.

Interior finish
Material list
2-3 or 4-way-system
MMCX socket
Damper (optional)
Kit acoustic tubest

Insert MMCX connector
Insert the hole for the MMCX socket
Insert the MMCX socket. The adhesive surfaces are marked red in the following drawing
Important: The connection cables are connected to the MMCX sockets. Please place the earmolds first in the ear and then draw the hole.



Insert damper (optional)
Damper or even acoustic resistors prevent peaks and smooth
t
he frequency response (see graphic)


Preparation of the acoustic tubes (Kit acoustic tubes)
Damper (optional) with a 3-way system into the switch or with a 2-way system into a ca.5mm-long tube with Ø 3mm
Glue the Ø 2mm tubes to the switch (glue red markings with glue and insert approx. 1mm.
Cut off the tubes to approx. 80mm length
For the 2-way system, the length of the driver-side tubes should not exceed 4 mm. The total length of the tubes should also be approx. 80mm.
Without a damper, only the Ø 2mm tube is necessary for the 2-way system; the 3-way system only has to be glued..


Gluing to the drivers
Glue drivers with the acoustic tubes. The contact points are shown in red. Thin adhesive must be applied to the driver. The transition from the drivers to the acoustic tubes must be tight.


Insert into the earmold
Insert the drivers with the glued tubes into the earmolds
Tubing slightly sloping off, so they get better through the hole.



Soldering drivers and MMCX sockets
For better clarity the cables are drawn in two colors.



Insert the cerumen filters and filter sockets
Material list:
Cerumen filters
Filter sockets




Test and fix the drivers
Check the almost finished inears for function.
Fix the drivers with a small dot second adhesive in the earmold
Caution, the acoustic tubes must never be kinked

Potting or with a faceplate
Material list:
Light-curing acrylic or
Faceplate

Form a hollow mold to fix the earmolds. The edge must be horizontal in all directions.
Apply light-curing acrylic to the earmolds.
Or:
Gluing a faceplate
Excess material abrade



Finishing
Material list:
Light-curing varnish

Earmolds can be easily smoothed with small files and very fine-grained sandpaper, but the surface remains dull.
Clean surfaces with alcohol.
By application of light-curing lacquer, a glossy, almost scratch-resistant surface, free of residual monomers, is achieved